Le Marais & Bastille

A medieval swamp ('marais') transformed into Paris's most aristocratic quarter in the 17th century, then left to decay as the nobility moved to Versailles. Its neglect saved it from Haussmann's 19th-century demolitions, preserving the oldest medieval streets in Paris. In the 20th century it became the center of Paris's Jewish community (centered on Rue des Rosiers) and later its LGBTQ+ community. Now the trendiest neighborhood in the city, mixing 400-year-old mansions (hotels particuliers) with galleries, boutiques, and the city's best falafel rivalry.

L'As du Fallafel on Rue des Rosiers is legendary but the line is long — Mi-Va-Mi across the street is equally good. Place des Vosges is a two-minute walk.

The oldest planned square in Paris, built by Henri IV in 1605-1612. Its 36 red-brick-and-stone pavilions with steep slate roofs established the template for European residential squares. Originally called Place Royale, it was renamed in 1800 after the Vosges department — the first to pay its taxes. Victor Hugo lived at No. 6 from 1832 to 1848, where he wrote much of Les Misérables; his apartment is now a free museum. Cardinal Richelieu lived here. Duels were frequently fought in the central garden despite royal prohibition.

Victor Hugo's house museum at No. 6 is free and rarely crowded. The arcaded galleries around the square have excellent small galleries and cafes.