Florence

Brunelleschi's dome, Botticelli's Venus, the plaza where Savonarola burned and David stood guard. Walk the half-mile that changed Western art forever, past the workshops where genius was Tuesday's job.

Cross the bridge the Nazis spared, enter workshops where gold leaf is still applied by hand, and find the chapel that taught Leonardo and Michelangelo how to paint. The real Florence lives south of the river.

Follow the family that bankrolled the Renaissance. From their parish church to their pharmacy, their market to their tombs, the Medici fingerprints are on every stone — and in every perfume bottle.